BONNE ANNEE DE FRANCE

I might have been more disappointed to be leaving Paris after just two days last month, having spent so little time in the City of Light with my family, were we not bound for exciting new territory (to me) - Provence and Languedoc in the south of France.  We did not accomplish all of our planned itinerary on this our first visit to Paris with our son, but I understood that, as with most amazing travel destinations, one always runs out of time in the City of Light before running out of things to do or places to see.  Plus, I confess that riding in first class on one of France's high-speed (TGV) trains was an additional lure to make our exit from the capital in the final days of 2012.

And, after two rainy, cold days in Paris with leaden skies, we were ready for warmer temperatures and the sun.   As if on queue, we awoke the morning of our departure to bright sunshine.  After breakfast in the hotel, our driver, with whom we had pre-arranged our transfers while in Paris, took us from the 5th Arrondisement along the Seine past the Jardin des Plantes and across the river to the packed Gare de Lyon, from which all TGV trains to the south depart.

SOUTH TOWARDS THE SUN: On board, we found our assigned seats and grabbed lunch from the dining car, which was delicious like every meal in France.  We then settled in for the comfortable, 2.5 hour trip from Paris to Avignon, covering 689 kilometers (about 428 miles) traveling at speeds of up to 200 miles per hour.  As we made our way south, the Paris suburbs quickly gave way to verdant farms, medieval towns with castles and, later, to our first glimpses of the Alps. 

We arrived in Avignon, one of Provence's main visitor destinations, just after lunch, exiting the modern TGV train station (which is separate from the main train station in the center of town) and grabbing our rental car.  A pleasant surprise came in the form of an upgrade to a black Mercedes C-class sedan.  Once my spouse had switched the navigation voice from French to English, we crossed the Rhone River that separates - administratively at least - Provence from Languedoc and drove for about 30 minutes until we reached our home for the long New Year's weekend, the lovely and beautiful medieval village of Uzès.

Arguably, there is an endless number of contenders for the title of the most beautiful village in France.  Undoubtedly, Uzès would rank high on such a list.  This ancient town of about 8,000 is compact, leafy, prosperous, walkable and full of great, small-town shopping and dining.  The town was a major center of religious power from the sixth through the eighteenth centuries.  Today, you can get a sense of its historical importance by taking the circular walk along the city's main boulevards.  Physically, Uzès is a town of red tile roofs and cream-colored stone walls that overlooks a valley of forests and vineyards.  And, while it's the closest location to one of the most visited examples of Roman architecture in southern France, and also a place where English is widely spoken, Uzès seems remarkably un-touristed and feels more like a great travel secret.

We discovered Uzès as a result of our first apartment rental experience using www.airbnb.com, the worldwide service that allows travelers to live like a local by staying in privately owned apartments and houses.  After searching for apartments in and around Avignon, I hopefully selected a "two-bedroom, sunny flat in the charming village" of Uzès.  I had read other travelers' reviews and then traded emails with the owner of the flat to assure myself that - hopefully - this would be a legitimate handing over of my Amex card number (rentals through airbnb are basically non-refundable absent extraordinary circumstances).  Happily, absolutely every last detail of our rental was just as represented by the owner, Michel, who lives in Paris.  Because he lives out of town, Michel had arranged for his friend in town, Monica, to meet us and get us settled.  At the appointed time, we met in the parking lot of the gothic Uzès cathedral, from where Monica led us around the circular main artery to an underground car park and then to our flat, which was, in fact, a spacious and sunny, two bedroom apartment with a full kitchen and washing machine just off Place aux Herbes, the town's main square and home to a bustling, all-day Saturday market.  Thanks to Monica's suggestions, we learned that just out the door were several good restaurants, as well as "super marché," a great wine store and Dechamps Phillipe, a patisserie with amazing coffee éclairs among its sinful offerings.  The apartment was clean and comfortable with wireless Internet and cable tv.  All of this, including the underground parking, for about $150 a night at the current dollar-euro exchange rate.

And, when we were ready to venture out, our apartment made for a great base of exploration in this part of France.  Located roughly equi-distance between Avignon, Nimes and Arles, Uzès lies about 50 miles inland from where the Rhone delta empties into the Mediterranean and not far off the busy A9 motorway that connects Lyon, Montpellier and Barcelona.  From this vantage point, we were able to pick a different direction each day and explore some of the highlights of this beautiful region. 

After a good night's rest, our first destination was the world-famous UNESCO sight at Pont du Gard, the Roman aqueduct bridge across the River Gardon.  Constructed around 19 B.C. to provide water to nearby Nimes, an important center of Roman administration, the Pont du Gard is the highest of Roman aqueducts built and today is considered by many to be the best preserved aqueduct after its urban cousin in Segovia, Spain.  This structure is, well, breathtaking to behold.  Amazingly preserved and intact, you can walk across the main span and climb up and across the upper span.  Back down on the ground, there is an excellent, start-of-the-art museum and, during warmer weather, swimming and kayaking are available.  Although my spouse and I were suitably blown away, generally, it takes a lot to impress our jaded, nearly-12-year-old son.  But, in this case, the Pont du Gard managed the task very effectively.

The next day was New Year's Eve and we headed south to check out the city that had earned such a magnificent source of water.  After driving through the spectacular Gorges du Gardon, which tested the steering precision of our rented Mercedes, we arrived in Nimes, the 2000-year-old capital of the Gard department of the Languedoc-Rousillon region.  During Roman times, Nimes was an important stop on the Via Domitia, the ancient road that connected Italy and Spain.  Today, this city of about 140,000 claims two of the finest examples of Roman Empire architecture anywhere.  The city boasts a still-functioning amphitheater and it also is home to the Maison Carrée, one of the best-preserved Roman temples still in existence.  After exploring both of these ancient sites, we strolled through the center of Nimes, which features a warren of pedestrian-only streets and alleys filled with shops and cafes.  After a quick break, we spent the last afternoon of 2012 enjoying the Jardins de la Fontaine, Nimes' 18th century park built around the ruins of Roman baths.  A highlight of this beautiful and elegant park is a ruined tower that now features an observation deck, which rewards climbers with a panoramic view of this sophisticated and interesting city, often overlooked by tourists who flock instead to nearby Avignon and Arles.  Pleased with our "discovery," as the late afternoon sun began to set, we made our way back "home" to Uzès and to what would turn out to be a very quiet ringing in of the New Year.  If there was partying amongst our temporary neighbors, we heard not a peep.  For us, New Year's Eve 2012 involved a quiet dinner cooked with ingredients from the local market, accompanied by bread from the boulangerie down the street and some delicious wine from the nearby "magasin de vin," topped off by some of those éclairs.

THE CITY OF POPES: After saying au revoir to 2012, New Year's Day 2013 started off on a gloomy note.  A quick walk around the rainy, deserted streets of Uzès the next morning confirmed that, at least in this corner of France, New Year's Day was all about staying inside.  Virtually no one else was out and nearly everything was closed.  What to do?  Well, after a late breakfast of baguette, eggs, local preserves and chocolate, we checked online and confirmed that at least one major visitor sight in Avignon was open.  So, we grabbed our umbrellas and headed north, back to the City of Popes.

Avignon today is one of Provence's most visited cities, and it features lots of hotel choices with good shopping, dining and nightlife.  It sits on the left bank of the Rhone River and is one of the few cities in this part of France that retains its ramparts or ancient city walls.  Much of the city's key visitor sites, including several museums, lie within these walls.  But, Avignon's main claim to fame dates back several centuries to a break in the rule of the Roman Catholic Church.  It's a rather complicated story involving kingdoms that no longer exist, but  - as a result of a schism - the church was ruled for more than a century not from Rome, but from Avignon.  Between 1309 and 1423, a series of popes (and their contenders) held court from this scenic location.  Their legacy is the gothic Palais des Papes, an imposing castle that looms over the city and offers commanding views.  Less palatial and more monastic, it's a rather cold and austere place and certainly bears no resemblance to the church's other, lasting seat of power in Rome.  But, it made for a very atmospheric visit on a cold, January day.  Adjacent to the palace is the imposing, Romanesque Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms and, next door, the Rocher des Doms, a beautifully landscaped garden perched above the Rhone and overlooking Avignon's other signature landmark.  The Pont Saint-Benezet, or Pont d'Avignon, was built in the 12th century as a series of stone arches across the river.  But, repeated flooding destroyed more than half the span.  And, since the 17th century, it has stood un-rebuilt, not as a means of transport, but as an iconic symbol of Avignon.  In fact, the bridge inspired an old French nursery rhyme that sings of dancing on this, the original bridge to nowhere.

Back at the apartment that evening, I spent our last evening in Uzès studying the map of this region and wondering how soon we could plan our return.  More directions and lots more destinations await.  In the meantime, we were getting excited about the next stop on our holiday: the gorgeous capital of Cataluña that is Barcelona.

 

TWO DAYS IN PARIS WITH A 'TWEEN

That my family and I actually made it to Paris two days after Christmas 2012 was a real accomplishment to end a challenging year.  The gods conspired a bit last year.  The trip itself was a re-booking of January 2012 airline tickets to Madrid, which were cancelled after I experienced a cranial emergency last New Year's Day.

Following that recovery and several other twists of fate and life, what had been planned as a museum-filled weekend in the Spanish capital for my spouse and me was reborn as a post-Christmas family holiday in France and Spain with our almost-12-year-old son.  We would now begin our holiday in Paris and end in Barcelona.

We spent Christmas day at home in Baltimore with family and prepared to fly the next evening from Philadelphia to Paris.  As it turns out, we live not quite half-way between Washington and Baltimore, which ends up giving us 4 major airport choices: BWI, Reagan, Dulles and Philadelphia.  Thanks to the ease of parking, customs and immigration, we often choose Philly over Dulles for flights to Europe.  But, we awoke the morning of our trip to snow and ice.  The roads were bad - well - bad for Maryland, which is not the toughest of winter weather destinations.  So, we decided at the last minute to skip the drive and instead dashed to the Amtrak rail station at BWI Thurgood Marshall Airport and hopped a crowded train to Philadelphia 30th Street Station, from where we grabbed a cab to Philadelphia International Airport and boarded our evening flight to Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport.

LES ENFANTS: Paris with children?  It's a city with many adult offerings, of course, but Paris is a wonderful city for people of all ages.  It's especially magical for kids and particularly so during the holiday season.  There are lots of museums and parks and other attractions to entertain and occupy children.  But, you do have to make some adjustments for the younger travelers in your party.  Although it's hard for someone like me who wants to see everything, less really is more in this, the most-visited city in the world.

I've always appreciated that the French, in general, and Parisians, in particular, dote on their little ones: children, small dogs and cats.  Visiting Paris during the week between Christmas and New Year's only served to underscore that point.  While we met very few fellow Americans on this visit, we ran into or, more accurately, stood in line with, thousands of French families on holiday with their kids.   As it turns out, this holiday week is a popular time for French families to take their children and visit their capital.  The city was mobbed with families and everywhere we went there were long lines and lots of strollers.

For us, traveling with a sixth-grader involved our own set of adjustments.  We got a later start each morning and we also scaled back what would have been my normal death march through Paris' endless list of world-class museums.  We spent more time just walking around this amazing city and, importantly, stopping whenever we were hungry instead of looking for the latest "it" restaurant.  As it turns out, such an approach to dining is not risky at all in Paris because there seem to be no bad dining choices in the City of Light.   Speaking of light, there was very little of it during our brief visit.  Being late December, it was dark and the weather was cold, rainy and overcast, but who cared.  We were in Paris, walking along the Seine with Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower in view.   

MAKING THE MOST OF TIME: Thanks to a colleague who had just returned from Paris, our transportation from Charles De Gaulle was pre-arranged with a friendly tour guide/cab driver who was waiting just outside baggage claim. We had emailed the details of our flight and hotel before leaving home.  Vijay, who studied engineering back home in India and is married to an avocat (lawyer), whisked us into town and to our hotel in the 5th Arrondisement.  Of course, we could have saved the 70 euro cost and taken a much cheaper train, but we were tired, my minimal French had not kicked in and we wanted to maximize our time.

This was our second stay in the St. Germain de Pres neighborhood  and we really loved - again - our small, perfectly situated hotel.  Le Clos Medicis is just around the corner from the northern entrance to Le Jardin du Luxembourg and just off Boulevard St. Michel.  The English-speaking staff is friendly and the triple room just off the central courtyard met our needs perfectly.  After dropping our bags, we made our way towards the river and took a left.  Soon, we found ourselves in front of the Musee' D'Orsay and stepped into the first of many lines.  It took about 40 minutes to gain entrance to one of the world's finest museums of Impressionist art.  In addition to its amazing permanent collection, we had the good fortune to visit during a blockbuster exhibition: "L’impressionnisme et la mode," which featured paintings by Caillebotte, Manet, Monet, Renoir and others focused on the fashions of the day.  The museum, which began life as a train station, includes a cafe on the top floor with grand views of Paris looking north.  We fed our jet lag here with a Coca Cola Light and a pistachio pastry.

An hour and a half generally is the outer limit when it comes to art museums and our son.  So, we made out way outside where a rain squall began.  We bought a cheap umbrella and headed along the Seine towards the Eiffel Tower, stopping to inspect all of the locks attached to a pedestrian bridge across from the Musee' D'Orsay as part of some ritual.  But, the rain intensified along with our fatigue, so we turned back and made our way to the hotel with a detour through the Jardin de Luxembourg just as the skies cleared and the sun came out.   This really is one of the most beautiful city parks anywhere in the world.  And, I had read on the flight over that French intelligence forces are headquartered beneath the Luxembourg Palace, so the presence of lots of stern looking French soldiers only convinced me this was true.

Back at the hotel, we violated a rule of travel to Europe and took a late afternoon nap.  But, we managed to get showered and out the door for a late - for us - dinner at one of the cafes across from the Jardin, which was delicious, of course.   The next morning, we headed out to our first destination of the day, Paris' natural history museum or, as it is more elegantly titled in French, La Grand Galerie de L'Evolucion.  Located in the lovely Jardin des Plantes near Gare D'Austerlitz, this museum is a great place for fans of dinosaurs and other early inhabitants of the planet.  Our son may have moved on to an iPod Touch and Minecraft apps, but he's still a big fan of T-Rex.  After waiting in line for another 40 minutes or so, we wandered up and down the three floors of this enormous museum, which is well-designed and cleverly lit.  All of the information is in French only, but it didn't matter; our son really enjoyed the displays and you definitely get the gist.

As we left the museum in search of lunch, our son experienced another travel dividend: exposure to others.  The museum is across the street from one of the large mosques in central Paris and so we got to explain the exodus of hundreds of men only from Friday services.  We headed towards Notre Dame and found a cafe full of other families having lunch.  Fortified with another delicious meal, we made our way past the Insitut du Monde Arabe, an amazing building with panoramic views that my spouse and I enjoyed on a prior visit, and crossed the Seine to the Isle St. Louis and then to Notre Dame.  The line to enter the cathedral was - of course - long, so we continued our walk to the Right Bank and headed towards shopping central along and near Boulevard Haussmann. 

Paris has several famous department stores or "grand magasins."  Our stop was Galleries Lafayette.  It's actually comprised of two buildings, one for women and home, and one for the guys.  We were duly impressed with the 6-story Swarovski Christmas tree but freed ourselves from the in-search-of-sales crowds as soon as we could.  Passing the grand Opera House, we walked to elegant Place Vendome, which was beautifully decorated, like all of Paris, for the holidays, and found a subway station to head back to our hotel for some rest before dinner. 

Our last night in Paris involved a quiet meal near our hotel.  We were up and out the next morning and Vijay was waiting for us.  He delivered us to the very busy Gare de Lyon, from where we caught a high-speed train (TGV) to the next chapter of our holiday adventure, the South of France.

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS ON THIS ELECTION

Like most, I am extraordinarily weary of this election season and am really sick of hearing from political types.  And, I'm talking about the groups I support!  Yes, the relentless campaigning and the endless, hysterical fundraising have worn me down.  And, I agree that you should not unfriend someone on Facebook just because he or she "likes" the other guy.  

Still, let's hold on for a second. There's an important footnote to that seemingly reasonable declaration.  It's one thing to disagree on taxes or Obamacare or the ways in which we can reduce the deficit.  I don't always agree with my team and I certainly can maintain my respect and admiration for a person who shares a different view. 

But, how you vote on issues of human and civil rights and basic freedoms  - including when you cast a vote for a candidate - should, in my view, draw a clear line between friend or foe.  If you vote to make me a second-class citizen, then my response will be to break up.   If you support attacks against me, then you're a callous and indifferent friend at best and really not much of a friend at all.  I don't need or want friends who blithely dismiss my basic human rights in favor of some ridiculously inaccurate and unrealistic campaign rhetoric about jobs or taxes or the chance to pay a few hundred bucks less in taxes.  Seriously, how much has any elected official actually ever impacted how much money was in your bank account at any point?  I'd never vote to screw you out of your most basic freedoms for a few shekels like some Pharisee, and I am not going down without a fight when you do the same to me.

I rejoice when you get a new job or get married (or meet someone who makes your heart flutter) or have a baby or when your adult child graduates from college.  I mourn and am saddened when you have a death in your family or when you suffer an illness or lose your job.  I don't rejoice in your setbacks and misfortunes or illnesses.  I hope you either recover from such setbacks or misfortunes or illnesses, or - at least - that such events are short-lived.  I don't always agree with or even understand the choices you make, but I am self-aware enough to appreciate that I certainly have made ill-advised choices in my life, so I am not going to rush to judge you harshly.  And, I seriously get being scared of the future during this difficult period in our history and wanting - sometimes desperately - for someone or something to come along and provide immediate relief in the form of inspiration and a roadmap toward better times.

But, I am not giving you a pass when you vote to strip me of my rights.  That's just bullshit.  When you vote for a Republican candidate in 2012 - with the party's virulent extremism, homophobia, misogyny and xenophobia - you are voting to limit the choices women have in most aspects of their lives and you are voting to continue to marginalize me and render me - as a gay man - a second-class citizen. 

And, let's do talk about the gays.  I am not going to debate with you or anyone else the various theories of why same-sex couples should not marry.  We exist, we existed at the time of Christ (and presumably Mohammad and Buddha and every other deity known to man) and we always will exist and we're not going away.  That's because we don't wake up one day and decide - what the heck - let's pick boys instead of girls.  And, we don't lead to bestiality or pedophilia.  

Claim your alternative set of facts, but gay people have been around since God created man, which is why there are a scant, few passages in the Bible.  We're not able to recruit.  We're born this way, just like you're born with black hair or dark skin or really tall or with dyslexia.  It's just a fact. It's not a choice and it's not a lifestyle.

We're not a disease or an affliction.  We are people, good and bad and awful, just like everyone else.  Like most, we want to be happy and safe and secure.  Like many, we have children, for whom we want the same and, actually, more.  Like my husband and me, we hold responsible jobs and pay taxes and own property and participate in life and commerce.  Some of us are raising children whose parents were unwilling or unable to raise.  We are your friends and neighbors and co-workers and classmates and golf buddies and brothers and sisters and children and - often - your mothers and your fathers.  

In the United States, the Bible is cited frequently as the "source document" and basis for why laws must be as laws are.  To be sure, it is for a lot of people - though not the Republican candidate for president in 2012; that would be the Book of Mormon.  The Bible also says a lot of things, including passages that encourage bigamy and slavery.  I have read and respect the Bible as one of mankind's fundamental texts.  

But, the Bible does not control the system of government and the laws in the United States by explicit design.  Our whole country came into existence because its founders experienced a complete lack of freedom to live as people legitimately should be able to live consistent with their religious beliefs.

So, I am not going to be polite when you choose to say with your vote, and claim the Bible instructs you so, that "You may be a hard-working, tax-paying, law-abiding, child-rearing, home-owning, productive citizen of the United States and the State of Maryland, but we think you deserve second-class status."

Vote as you will, but I don't need anybody in my life who votes like that. 

So, go ahead and unfriend - please.

ST. LOUIS - MORE THAN A GATEWAY TO THE WEST

NO FADED GLORY: In its current status as a battleground state, Missouri can seem a hard place hard to figure out.  But, its oldest big city is an easy place to visit and explore.  I frequently hate the politics of Missouri, but I love St. Louis without reservation.

St. Louis reminds me of the town I now call home in many ways.  Both St. Louis and Baltimore are historic, independent cities founded in the 18^th century that were located near strategic waterfront locations.  Both had their major growth spurts long ago and each once ranked among America’s largest cities in the first part of the 20^th century.  And, both suffered through long and painful periods of decline and, later, reinvention.  More recently, both have emerged as reinvented 21^st century cities that are dynamic places to live and work and visit.  Like Baltimore and other cities that have struggled over time, St. Louis is not without its problems, but it remains and – in some ways because of those problems – has become a more vibrant, diverse place well worth exploring.

Today, St. Louis is one of the Midwest’s great visitor destinations, with great history, interesting neighborhoods, excellent dining and good shopping, and lots of things for both adults and kids to enjoy.  Earlier this year, my family and I spent a long weekend in the city and we enjoyed all that St. Louis has to offer.  We also made plans to return in order to see more of what we missed.  As it turns out, the Gateway to the West offers much for both the first-time and repeat visitor.

SETTLING IN:  St. Louis City has a population of 318,000, which makes it only the second largest city in Missouri after Kansas City, although metropolitan St. Louis is much larger at nearly 2.9 million.  By comparison, in the 1950s, St. Louis had more than 800,000 residents.   Despite its declining size, or maybe in response to it, St. Louis is a very livable city that welcomes visitors easily.

We arrived in St. Louis for a long weekend visit with my cousin and his children who are close in age to our 11-year-old.  For us, this meant a weekend of kid-friendly activities combined with general sightseeing, getting in a run, and enough shopping, dining and chances for adult beverages to keep everyone happy.  In this regard, St. Louis does not disappoint.

St. Louis has several lodging options: (1) downtown along the Mississippi River with its convention facilities and home of Busch Stadium (the St. Louis Cardinals) and Edward Jones Dome (the St. Louis Rams); (2) the Central West End, which is an upscale, in-town neighborhood that is home to some of the city’s cultural and recreational offerings; and (3) the Delmar Loop, a fun and interesting neighborhood near the beautiful campus of the well-respected Washington University and at the edge of the city limits.  In addition, beyond the city limits are lots of other options in surrounding St. Louis County, including the very upscale county seat of Clayton, home to St Louis' outposts of the Ritz-Carlton and Neiman-Marcus chains.

We chose as our base the very stylish and hip Moonrise Hotel in the Delmar Loop near the border between St. Louis City and University City.  It's a great location and it had the personal benefit of being located a few minutes away from my cousin's home.  Along with stylishly hip accommodations, the Moonrise features a very tasty and reasonably priced restaurant, Eclipse, along with a rooftop bar and is located right on Delmar Boulevard with its many restaurants and shops.  The service at the Moonrise was warm and friendly, and its location near Forest Park and among tree-lined streets of beautiful older homes allowed me to fit in a couple of easy sightseeing runs.   Other choice hotel options in St. Louis include, as noted above, the classically beautiful Ritz-Carlton in Clayton along with the equally stylish Chase Park Plaza in the Central West End and a newer entry to the luxury accommodations roster, the Four Seasons St. Louis downtown.

FUN FOR EVERYONE:  We started our exploration of St. Louis in one of the greatest urban parks anywhere.   Opened in 1876, Forest Park, on the city's western edge, is a fabulous greensward full of attractions for literally everyone.  This nearly 1,400 acre "civic center" hosted the Louisiana Purchase Exposition and the Summer Olympics in 1904, as well as a world's fair.  Today, it simply is a wonderful place to be outside and in.  Contained within its borders are the St. Louis Zoo, the Saint Louis Art Museum, the Missouri History Museum and the St. Louis Science Center.  We spent a sunny Friday afternoon at the zoo with the kids and our animal loving son gave the St. Louis rendition a big thumb's up.

After a casual dinner at home with my cousin and our kids, we all headed out the next morning bright and early for the signature attraction of St. Louis, the Gateway Arch.  Part of the Jefferson Expansion National Historic Park, the 630-foot arch was built as a monument to the westward expansion of the United States following the Louisiana Purchase.  It sits on the banks of the Mississippi River at the location where St. Louis was founded in 1764.  There is an excellent visitor center at the base of the arch and, excitingly for our kids, a tram that delivers you to the top of the arch and its ever-so-slightly claustrophobic observation deck.  On the morning of our visit, fog initially completely obstructed the view but, as it began to clear, we all enjoyed seeing the mighty Mississippi and downtown buildings come into view.

Back down on the ground and a few blocks away is another kid-friendly, yet slightly bizarre attraction, the City Museum.  Housed in the former home of the International Shoe Company in the Washington Avenue Loft District, the City Museum is a hands-on museum comprised mainly of repurposed industrial and architectural salvage.  It bills itself as an eclectic mixture of children's playground, surrealistic pavilion and architectural marvel.  Approaching the museum from the first street, one is not sure what to make of the jumble of towers, turrets, a hulk of an airplane and other odd pieces, all connected by wire mesh tunnels, which are perfect for climbing and exploring, all while suspended several feet in the air.  Inside, there is an aquarium, a gift shop, several dining options and, during warmer weather, a rooftop deck serving food and beverages.

FOR THE ADULTS:  Balancing travel itineraries to keep people of all ages engaged sometimes can be challenging.  In our case, we avoided any potential conflict during the second full day of our weekend visit to St. Louis, thanks to a teenage niece looking to earn some babysitting dollars.   With the kids happily settled at home with frozen pizza, my cousin and my spouse and I met up with a former colleague and her husband, an art dealer.  As you might imagine, an art dealer's home is - well - full of art.  After admiring my friends' museum/home, we headed out together for one of those great neighborhood restaurant meals that, as a visitor, make you feel like you've been let in on the secret handshake.

Trattoria Marcella sits on a corner in a largely residential stretch of southwest St. Louis.  It's just off I-44 and not far from Tower Grove Park, another great St. Louis green space, and the Missouri Botanical Garden.   The Italian menu is simple and straightforward.  The food and service were excellent during our visit and I enjoyed knowing that I'd never have found this place but for my St. Louis friends.

The next day, we ventured to the Central West End neighborhood.  It's full of beautiful homes from another century, as well as great restaurants and stores.  I love it here.  The CWE is home, as well, to one of my favorite places to browse in St. Louis.  Local, independent bookstores are rare these days but St. Louis can proudly claim Left Bank Books, a treasure trove of intelligent, varied and diverse book selections.  Our son found a shortish volume of British history, while I checked out the local St. Louis t-shirts.

Our final evening in St. Louis had us walking from the Moonrise down the - who knew - St. Louis walk of fame on Delmar Boulevard.  Turns out, there's a remarkable number of famous people who either grew up in St. Louis or spent considerable time in the city.  The list includes Josephine Baker, William Tecumseh Sherman, Marlin Perkins, Jackie Joyner Kersee and Miles Davis.  Our destination was another St. Louis landmark, Blueberry Hill.  This restaurant has been around for four decades and serves great comfort food.  We had a great final meal in St. Louis.

I really do love this city.  It straddles the border between east and west and north and south.  Most will find something familiar with which to identify.  In the end, St. Louis is its own interesting, diverse, complex slice of America. 

MY RULES:  St. Louis is easily accessible for everyone, owing to its location in the middle of the country.   That includes direct service from Baltimore. As for my second rule, I don't think anyone is going to label Missouri as a progressive place, but I do think St. Louis is a good town in which gay people can live and prosper without too much harassment.  Time will tell, but I think this is a good town in which families of all types can settle down.