LJUBLJANA: A LOVELY CITY OF WHICH YOU'VE NEVER HEARD

HARD TO SPELL, EASY TO LOVE: When I first arrived in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, four years ago, I had no idea what to expect and the bar had been set pretty high. We had just spent three days in over-the-top beautiful Prague and had traveled by train through the spectacular Austrian Alps to arrive at the sort of podunk train station in Ljubljana. Exiting the station, we faced some rather dull, communist-style buildings and my first thought was, "let's just check it off and quickly move on to Croatia and Italy." Yet, within an hour of dropping our bags at the apartment we rented for two days and making our way to the center of town, I was completely smitten with the city, the consonant-laden name of which is pronounced LOOB-LEE-YANA.

As my spouse and I discovered on that first and our most recent visits, Ljubljana is a wonderful, lovely and immensely entertaining capital of less than 300,000. The city manages to look and feel much larger, yet its small scale is precisely why Ljubljana is a perfect place to spend a few, pleasant days easily exploring the many architectural and historical highlights, stylish shops, great restaurants and many outdoor cafes full of friendly residents enjoying great weather. Ljubljana also has its own Central Park, Tivoli, which offers a green escape just to the west of the central city. You can easily walk to all the main attractions and sights in Ljubljana and there are plenty of places to stop for a break along the way. Both our visits have been in early May when the weather is generally fine; warm days and pleasant evenings with everything in full bloom and only the chance of rain showers to plan for. I am told that Ljubljana is a great city to visit in all seasons, including when it wears an occasional blanket of snow.

On both visits, we booked lodging through Apartmaji Sobe, an apartment rental service run by friendly, English-speaking locals, which has a good inventory of studio and one-bedroom apartments in or near the center of town available for a few days or a week or more. In both cases, we enjoyed the convenience of a kitchen and washing machine in addition to a comfortable sleep in a great location, all for around 100 euros a night. The agency also offers convenient transfers from your apartment door to the airport, as well as to and from other locations around Slovenia, including Lake Bled. I also note here that, in addition to the folks at Apartmaji Sobe, virtually everyone we met in Ljubljana spoke perfect English.

THE CENTER OF IT ALL: For visitors, Ljubljana's best feature is that most of what you want to see and do is conveniently located on or near both sides of the Ljubljanica River, which runs through the center of the city. The river divides the city between the old and new towns. Old town is on the right bank of the Ljubljanica with its medieval and baroque buildings; the crown of old town is Ljubljanski Grad, Ljubljana's ancient castle perched high on a hill overlooking the city with views of the Alps in the distance. There are now two ways to reach the castle; you can hike up the scenic path as it rises above the rooftops of old town, or you can ride a new funicular that whisks you from the base near Glavna trznica, the city's main market, to the entrance to the castle museum and central courtyard. The roundtrip fare on the funicular is about 4 euros. Either way, making your way to the top of the castle tower is a great, essential Ljubljana experience and the view is really thrilling. There also is a restaurant and a few galleries located just off the central courtyard of the castle, so you can spend a few hours exploring, shopping, admiring the view and enjoying a meal. Back down below are the beautifully maintained streets of old town with their cafes that feature outdoor seating, many along the banks of the river. Old town also is home to the city's 15th century town hall, which presides over a courtyard featuring a replica of the fountain of three rivers. The original fountain, which dates to the 18th century, was removed in 2006 for preservation and is now housed at the National Gallery.

CROSSING THE RIVER: The trip across the Ljubljanica is less than 100 feet but that did not stop Ljubljana from constructing several beautiful and architecturally impressive bridges. There is the Tromostovje, or Triple Bridge, which actually is three separate, adjacent spans. Slovenia's most famous and prodigious architect, Joze Plecnik, designed twin additions to the original central span, which was built in in the 19th century, to make it easier for pedestrian and vehicular traffic to cross the river efficiently and safely. The result of the three balustraded bridges is monumental and the Triple Bridge, now pedestrian only, has become a symbol of the city along with the namesake feature of the Dragon Bridge. This vehicular bridge is crowned with four, fierce dragons that have become another icon of Ljubljana. Legend has it that Jason, of Greek mythology, found his way to the area around Ljubljana after he took the Golden Fleece, whereupon he encountered a fierce dragon that he slayed. The legend and the dragon have come to symbolize Ljubljana and its long, proud and often difficult history.

Once you make the trip across Triple Bridge from old to new town, you are on the left bank and in the middle of Ljubljana's main square, Presernov trg, or Preseren Square. Perched at the center of the square is the bubblegum pink, 17th century Franciscan church. The square is named after another famous Slovene, France Preseren, who was a tragic figure but an accomplished poet in the 19th century. On this side of the river, you also can spot several outstanding examples of the architect Plecnik's prolific designs. His work, which is described in many guidebooks as Secessionist, was so prolific and left such a mark on the city, in part, because he answered the call to help rebuild Ljubljana after a devastating 1895 earthquake left much of the city's buildings in ruin.

Walking around Ljubljana and admiring the work of Plecnik and other great architects is part of the attraction; the central city is particularly blessed with beautiful architecture. Stopping for lunch or just coffee or a glass of excellent Slovenian wine is another. In fine weather, virtually everyone seems perched at his or her favorite outdoor cafe spot along the riverside embankment with the weeping willow trees arching gracefully over the water. During our visit, we enjoyed a lot of cafe-stopping, taking breaks from the sights or a visit to Tivoli Park or some shopping. As in Zagreb, Ljubljana has several interesting local stores offering stylish clothes, shoes and crafts. While the city's museums are not blockbuster by any means, they do offer a chance to see Slovenian art, which is something not easily done outside the country. The National Gallery, located near the beautiful gingerbread American embassy, houses a nice collection of Slovenian art in a grand, Secessionist-era building that also includes a more modern wing.

Another signature feature of Ljubljana is its youth. Slovenia's largest and most prestigious institution of higher learning, the University of Ljubljana, is scattered among several impressive buildings on the left bank and the regular influx of nearly 50,000 undergraduate and graduate students gives Ljubljana a youthful edge. I suspect this also is one reason why Ljubljana has a fairly ubiquitous presence of, and tolerance for, graffiti. While sort of off-putting to me personally, particularly when it mars a beautiful building, I do get the point that this form of expression may, in some ways, be part of making up for the time when free expression in the former Yugoslavia was not so easy. Ljubljana's relative youth also gives its nightlife a certain edge. One interesting example is Metelkova, a heavily graffitied complex of bars, nightclubs and a hostel housed in former Yugoslav army barracks. There are different venues within the complex located near the train station. We visited on our last night in town to check out Klub Tiffany, a gay bar, which turned out to be closed. I was a little disappointed because it seemed like a good "bucket list" thing to do: visit a gay bar housed in former communist army barracks. Next time, perhaps.

And, there will be a next time because our love affair with the capital of Slovenia has only intensified with our most recent visit.

A LAKE NAMED BLED

ALPINE DELIGHT: To an English-speaking person's ear or eye, Lake Bled might sound or look kind of, well, foreboding. In reality, Blejsko Jezero, its name in Slovenian, is one of the most spectacular and heavenly bodies of water I have ever viewed. This postcard-perfect lake, set high in the Julian Alps of Slovenia near the border with Austria, leaves one with a shortage of superlatives. But, I will try.

As it turned out, we traveled to Lake Bled on a rainy and foreboding Saturday via train from Zagreb, Croatia. The trip normally takes about three hours. Just like back home in Washington, we had train track problems and arrived an hour or so late. There are two train stations in the adjacent, namesake town of Bled, but only one station, Lesce-Bled, has direct service to Ljubljana, Zagreb, Austria and points beyond. From the train station, it's a 10 minute cab ride to the center of town that fronts the lake. You also can easily travel to Lake Bled by car or bus from Ljubljana, which takes about an hour. Of course, the lake is the center of attraction, but the town also serves as a convenient and pleasant jumping off point to explore the other lakes and mountains of this region, which includes Slovenia's highest peak, Mount Triglav, at nearly 9,400 feet.

SLO-WHERE? While Americans are beginning to discover the nearby Adriatic coast of Croatia in increasing numbers, joining thousands of Britons, French and Germans who already know the good word, Slovenia remains for the most part off American travelers' radars. First, there is the name, which frequently gets confused with Slovakia, a country to the north that used to be joined with the Czech Republic. Once on the ground, the eastern province of Croatia is named Slavonia, adding to the confusion.

Figuring all this out is well worth the effort because my spouse and I consider Slovenia one of our best travel discoveries - ever. We literally stumbled on this Connecticut-sized corner of the former Yugoslavia in planning a trip in 2006 from Prague to Venice. Rather than fly, we decided to take the train south through the Alps and catch a high-speed ferry from the Croatian coast to Venice. To get to the Istrian peninsula in northwest Croatia, from where the ferries sail, we would need to travel through Slovenia. We decided to spend a full day in the country, figuring that, if we hated it, we'd be on our way to Venice the next day.

In fact, we discovered a gorgeous, friendly and fairly prosperous country of forested mountains, tidy Alpine villages and a sliver of Adriatic coast. Slovenia, with about 2 million residents, borders Austria and Italy to the north and west, and Croatia and Hungary to the south and east. The first of the former Yugoslav republics to apply for admission to the European Union, Slovenia today is a full EU member that uses the euro currency. If you try your hand at a few words of Slovenian, it will be greatly appreciated by residents. That said, traveling in Slovenia is incredibly easy for Americans because virtually everyone speaks nearly perfect English.

A CASTLE AND AN ISLAND: On our first trip to Slovenia, we spent all our time in Ljubljana, its jewel-box of a capital. We would return to Ljubljana on this trip, but first wanted to see the country's other star attraction, Lake Bled. And, while we visited on a couple of rainy, foggy and cool days, nothing can distract from the absolute beauty of the lake. It's deep, crystal blue and ringed by verdant, green mountains. There is a well-maintained walking and running path that covers the circumference of the lake, a distance of about 5 miles. It's an easy and pleasant walk (or run). Along the way, there are places to stop for a meal or a snack, swimming areas and the occasional lakeside villa, including the vacation home of Yugoslavia's former dictator, Josep Broz Tito. Most of the hotels at Lake Bled are in the center of Bled town on the eastern shore of the lake. This is also where most of the restaurants, shopping and outfitters (e.g., bikes, ski equipment and hiking gear) can be found. The hotels tend to be large, 1970s-era properties that look and feel very much in need of a serious post-communist makeover. Still, the view and setting can't be beat. I did some research on Trip Advisor and found instead a small, elegant hotel located at the other end of the lake and up a fairly steep climb from the lakeside path. The Hotel Triglav Bled features lake-view rooms with hardwood floors, flat-screen TVs and balconies, from where you can enjoy your own private, panoramic views of the lake and the Alps. The dining room serves delicious, high-quality meals, and the staff is very friendly and accommodating. There is a heated pool and sauna and we also were able to arrange for very expert massages during our visit. All of this for about 140 euros a night.

On our first afternoon, we complete the perimeter of the lake under a fairly steady drizzle and explore Bled town before returning to the hotel for a great meal, which also features an entertaining table of Austrian children and their dog who are in town for an anniversary party, as well as a nice conversation with a just-arrived couple from London. The skies clear the next day so we make our way back into town to catch the boat over to the island in the lake, on which sits the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary, dating back to the 16th Century. As you might imagine, a beautiful Romanesque church on a tiny island in the middle of an idyllic Alpine lake is a very popular wedding destination. The island also has a snack and gift shop for your souvenir and break needs. Back in town, we stop for lunch at one of the large hotels before making our way to the Bled Castle. The castle, which dates from the 11th Century, is perched on a cliff more than 400 feet above the lake. It's a good way to work off lunch as we hike the steep trail up. Our reward at the top is a breathtaking view of the lake, town and surrounding area. There is a wine shop run by local monks and a restaurant and reception facility. The sun is finally shining as we breath in the clear air and enjoy a view that has captured and inspired visitors for centuries. On our last evening in town, we enjoy an excellent meal of seafood, Slovenian wine and the signature Bled creme cake at Ostarija Peglez'n, a small cafe across the street from the lake. When we visited on a Sunday night, it was packed but the service was friendly and efficient. The next day, it's back to one of our favorite capital cities, Ljubljana, but not before staring out at Lake Bled once more and being really happy to have found our way to this amazingly beautiful corner of central Europe.

THE STYLISH CROATIAN CAPITAL

FINALLY, A CAPITAL CITY: As you stroll the streets in the center of Zagreb, Croatia, it's hard to believe the city has served as a seat of national government for less than 20 years. Prior to the establishment of an independent Croatian republic in 1991, Zagreb had never held the title of capital. The city has been an important center of commerce, trade, education, art and ecclesiastical power for centuries. In the short time since Croatian independence, it also has quickly and easily acquired all of the other features of a major European capital, except for hordes of tourists. That is changing and it should.

Visitors to Zagreb will find a stylish and fun destination full of well-dressed residents hanging out - all day, it seems - in outdoor cafes. There are good museums and restaurants, some great shopping, even better people-watching, and an expanding range of hotel options. Zagreb also has several elegant green spaces in the center of town and, just to the north of the city, which sits astride the Sava River, lies Medvednica Mountain with its winter skiing and warm-weather hiking. As in much of Croatia, English is widely spoken in Zagreb, but a few words of the local language will always win you praise.

We traveled to Zagreb via train from the Dalmatian coast at Split, a beautiful 5-hour journey high through the Dinaric Mountains along the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. Most visitors to Croatia spend their time along the sun-drenched Adriatic coast and on neighboring islands. By contrast, Zagreb looks and feels more like Prague or Budapest; this is the other side of Croatia, a country of less than 5 million people with an incredible geographic diversity. Nearly one million of Croatia's residents live in the capital, so you can't get a full picture of the country without visiting Zagreb.

Our train arrived at Zagreb's mail railway station, Glavni Kolodvor, and we hopped on one of the city's sleek blue trams, which took us to British Square (Britanski Trg), from where we made the short but steep hike to the Hotel President. Perched on a hilly residential street, the President is a sleek, modern boutique property designed by the owner-architect. All hardwood and glass, our well-appointed room had its own private terrace and a view of the wooded neighborhood near the Presidential Palace. It felt a lot like staying in a tree-house. The staff was gracious and helpful.

After a breakfast of Dalmatian coast ham, eggs and fruit, we start our one full day of exploration in Zagreb. The central city is divided essentially between the medieval Upper Town (Gornji Grad) and the Hapsburg-era Lower Town (Donji Grad). A handy funicular connects the two, located just off the main shopping street, Ilica. As you exit the funicular at the top end, you are rewarded with a great panorama of the city. Turning north, we enter the square centered on St Mark's Church. Dating from the 13th Century, the church's signature feature is its colorfully tiled roof that includes two key Croatian coats of arms. This also is the official seat of government of modern Croatia. Parliament is located on one side of the square and the prime minister's offices on the other. Just to the north is a museum that turns out to be well worth the diversion. I was not predisposed to spend any time at the Zagreb City Museum, but it proved to be an informative and interesting stop that tells the story of the history of the city. As I learned, a key event in Zagreb's development was its designation as a Roman Catholic bishopric in the 11th Century, owing to the city's strategic location between Rome and the eastern Orthodox centers.

Exiting the museum, we make our way towards the Zagreb Cathedral, the center of religious life in overwhelmingly Catholic Croatia. On our way, we stop to have a coffee on Tkalciceva Street, a Disney-set-like street of cafes and beautiful medieval buildings. Sitting in the warm sun, I confess to wishing that I had been born in a place where there's always time for a leisurely visit with a friend in the middle the day (I'd lose the omnipresent cigarette smoke in the case of Croatia).

Rain clouds are moving in as we make our way past the Dolac, Zagreb's vibrant daily city market, the red umbrellas of which provide cover for all kinds of food and flowers and products for sale. It's a key ingredient of Zagreb's DNA and well worth a browse. We grab lunch at a cafe on adjacent Jelacic Square (Trg bana Jelacica), the central heart of Zagreb. This is where the pulse of life in the city can best be felt. It's remarkably free - for now - of tourists and that makes it a real travel experience. It's not like anywhere else because, well, it's not.

Next, we head south to Glavni Kolodvor to buy tomorrow's train tickets to Slovenia and, along the way, pass through the eastern part of Lower Town's green horseshoe of parks and squares. Here, the buildings are impressive and grand Hapsburg-era structures housing hotels and museums. We stop to walk through the lobby of the Regent Esplanade, Zagreb's most famous hotel, which was built to accommodate passengers of the Orient Express. It's busy on the day we visit with a conference of European bankers.

Zagreb has several worthwhile museums, many focused on Croatian artists. We visit the Modern Art Gallery, housed in one of Donji Grad's grand buildings. The collection is interesting and, as with much of our travels in Croatia, it's cool to be viewing art that can't be seen just anywhere. Our time in town ran out, but I'd like to check out on a next visit the newest arrival on Zagreb's museum scene, the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Art, located just across the Sava in Novi (new) Zagreb.

Next up is shopping. Zagreb has branches of international chains, of course, but the real fun is finding a "you can't buy this anywhere" item. We do and, several hundred euros later, we make our way by tram back to the hotel.

After a glass of wine and a nice chat with our lovely hotel reception manager, Iva, we head out for dinner. I generally choose not to write bad reviews on my blog. I am making an exception in this case. Iva suggested having dinner at the restaurant Korcula, known for seafood from the waters off its namesake island. We made our way there on our first night in town and were told the restaurant was closed, this despite being packed with dinner patrons obviously not on their way out the door. So, we went back the next night, much earlier and on a Friday no less. Marking us, I suspect, for stupid tourists, we were sent to a stinky, musty basement dining room. I don't think so. As we learned, the conference in town had sent several restaurants into a tizzy, but this place was a notable exception to what was an overwhelmingly true rule of incredible Croatian hospitality. Avoid the restaurant - not the island - Korcula.

Saturday morning dawns rainy and gloomy as we make our way to the train station and on to Slovenia, but I am happy because I know we have made a very worthwhile travel stop in a lovely and gracious and stylish capital city. Hvala, Zagreb.

SPLIT AND A ROMAN EMPEROR'S CRIB

CROATIA AND SLOVENIA: PART 2

ALL ROADS LEAD TO A PLACE CALLED SPLIT: Way back in the day, Diocletian was a native of the area around modern Split, Croatia who, despite humble beginnings, rose through the ranks of the Roman military to rule - ultimately - as emperor of the vast empire from 284 A.D. to 305 A.D. He never lost his love for his native Dalmatia, however, and, as he neared the end of his reign, Diocletian decided to build one heck of a retirement place back home. He ordered thousands of workers and slaves to work nonstop for 11 years to construct a palace that survives to this day, albeit in pieces interwoven within the fabric of a modern city. Fast forward a few centuries and we are making our way from Dubrovnik to Diocletian's hometown after three great days in the "Pearl of the Adriatic." Despite some less than favorable first impressions, Split proves to be a very worthwhile stop among the many tempting locations along the Croatian coast.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia, a bustling port and a key point of departure and transit for ferries, trains and buses carrying passengers between the islands off the coast and other parts of Croatia, the larger Balkan peninsula and beyond. Before getting to Split, we face the happy prospect - really - of a 3.5 hour road trip north out of the Dubrovnik and along the spectacular Dalmatian coast. Leaving the old walled city, we cross the new bridge that links Dubrovnik with the rest of Croatia and each turn and switchback produces another breathtaking vista of the blue Adriatic and the islands. Opting not to risk driving off a cliff because of such beautiful scenery, we hire a driver for the trip. Goran is our affable and courteous driver who shares his opinions along the way about this part of Croatia, tourism and even some nostalgia for the former Yugoslav strongman, Josep Broz Tito. Still, it is obvious that Croatians by and large have embraced the ways of free-market commerce and tourism wholeheartedly. Having an idyllic setting, some of the best historical sights in Europe and really friendly locals makes the effort pretty easy, it seems.

About an hour into the drive, we reach the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. As Goran explains, when Yugoslavia (i.e., the republic of the south Slavs) existed, Tito managed the disparate and fractious demands of the states that comprised the former communist nation in lots of ways. In one example, to appease the Bosnian government in Sarajevo, he "gave" Bosnia-Herzegovina (abbreviated locally as "B-H") a 26-kilometer finger of Croatia's long coastline so that Bosnians would have a seaside destination all their own. Today, this briefest of coastlines centers on the discount holiday town of Neum. In the 20 minutes or so we are in town to buy B-H souvenirs and snap pictures, the difference in the recent histories of now-separate Croatia and B-H is apparent. Everything in this sliver of a coast looks and feels poorer and shabbier than the shiny resorts and villas of Croatia, which could be mistaken for being in Italy, France or Spain. Of course, B-H rewards with worthwhile destinations that are re-emerging after the war on travel agendas, including Sarajevo and Mostar, but that's not our agenda for this trip so our journey to Split resumes.

Five minutes after our drive-by visit to B-H, we re-enter Croatia and the road turns away from the coast and appearing below is the "California of Croatia." This is the compact and astoundingly fertile valley of the Neretva River delta, which produces the bulk of Croatia's bountiful produce, including oranges, lemons, strawberries, peaches, figs and, of course, some of that delicious and reliably good Croatian wine. At Goran's suggestion, we stop at a roadside stand and pick up snacks and wine from a sweet woman selling the fruits of her hard labor. She speaks no English but we get by with Goran's help and my frequent use of "Hvala puno," which means "Thank you very much" in Croatian. To keep up with the ever-increasing number of visitors, Croatia is rapidly expanding its motorway system toward Dubrovnik and the southern border with Montenegro. In the meantime, the road north turns further away from the coast and high into the Dinaric Mountains that form part of the border between Croatia and B-H. Conversation in the car ceases; we don't want to keep Goran from focusing on his task, which is keeping the car on a road of hairpin turns, amazing drop-offs and flimsy or non-existent guardrails.

HAVE WE MADE A MISTAKE: 15 or so minutes later, we descend out of the mountains, the motorway resumes and, before long, the exit for Split appears. Arrival in Split by boat must be an improvement over driving into town by car because the latter is very disappointing; one might be tempted to keep driving, in fact. While Dubrovnik managed to escape much of the scars of communist-style apartment blocks, Split was not so lucky. Its outskirts are full of such ugly buildings climbing the hillsides. Still, when Goran finally delivers us to the pedestrian-only old town along the seaside, my travel planner's fears lift.

As it turns out, Split is a lively, enormously fun and interesting city with good food, shopping, people-watching and nightlife. Its charms must be probed and sought out, which is part of its appeal, and it's the perfect compliment to post-card perfect Dubrovnik. We arrive on my birthday, so we splurge and check in to the fairly pricey and hip Marmont Hotel, a small, beautifully designed property located just outside the walls of Diocletian's Palace. After a satisfying lunch of seafood risotto at a nearby tavern, we set out to explore.

The ruins of the Diocletian's Palace are remarkable in several respects. First, there is the fact that so much of the structure has survived until now in the middle of a busy and ever-changing city. Second, Split seems to have grown and expanded with the ruins in its very midst, almost - it seems - without notice, or at least with a very pragmatic reverence.

All around town, you can look up and above a building housing, for example, a designer tie shop and spot the arches of a portion of the emperor's palace. Speaking of designer tie shops, I learned in preparing to travel to Croatia that the necktie originated here. Croatian mercenaries arriving in the court of King Louis XIV of France, the story goes, were sporting a neckband that was the forerunner of the modern necktie. The king was very impressed and became an early adapter. The French word for necktie is "cravat," which historians believe is a derivative of the French word for Croatian. And so, looking for pieces of the palace, we spot a branch of Croata, a designer boutique selling Croatian-made neckties, from where my birthday present is purchased. Later that first night, we have dinner at Luxor, a restaurant serving traditional Croatian seafood and other dishes, and our waiter points out that the ground floor bar occupies the space that formerly served as the Temple of Venus within Diocletian's Palace.

Residents of Split accept such history surrounding them with a certain "of course" matter-of-factness. What this means for visitors is that there is no single, contained tour of Diocletian's Palace. Instead, you have to wander around, look at a map, spot a piece of ancient Roman architecture, and then take a break at one of the many cafes built into all this history. Today, Split is the primary jumping off point to some of Croatia's most popular mid-coast island destinations, including the new "it" resort of Hvar, as well as Brac and Korcula. There are lots of backpackers, German and British holidaymakers and cruise ship daytrippers in town during the peak summer season. It's also the southern terminus of Croatia's railway network, so there always are lots of people in transit and in town briefly. On most days, when not dashing to explore some corner of the palace, you will find several of these visitors and locals alike strolling the riva, a beautiful "front porch" seaside promenade along the Adriatic. There are plenty of places to stop, have a drink, enjoy the sunset and people watch. This is another of Split's essential experiences.

There are a few other stops in Split worth making. Just beyond the walls of the palace is the Gallery of Fine Arts, featuring a well-exhibited collection of Croatian artists and temporary exhibitions. During our visit, we lucked out to catch an exhibit of Francisco de Goya's etchings. Another museum choice is the Mestrovic Gallery, one of the museums in Croatia dedicated to its most famous sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic. But wait, Split is on the coast, right? Yes, there are beaches to explore. The center of town is not really for beaching it, but the adjacent Marjan Peninsula offers several places to swim and sun. I went for a run on our last morning in town through this hilly and wooded stretch of the city that also includes hiking trails and some beautiful villas. This is where you head to experience the sea side of Split. The night before, we also checked out a brief sliver of Split's nightlife. The city seems very full of young people looking for fun. We walked a few blocks from our hotel through the ancient alleys and found a bar run by a local gay couple that was the perfect setting for a nightcap. Nothing more than a bar, recorded music and chairs spilling out the doorway of an ancient building and onto the marble alleyway and stairs. At first glance, you might not even stop. But, that's sort of the essence of Split. A place that might not wow with first impressions, but which leaves lasting and pleasant memories.

UP NEXT: The stylish and hip capital of Zagreb.

CROATIA & SLOVENIA: PART 1

NOTE: I am writing not from the comfort of home, but from on the road (or, this case, a train), so I will forego my normal OCD routine of spell-checking obsessively and searching hyperlinks in order to put words to paper.

YOU ARE GOING WHERE? Several people asked us that question as we began planning this trip last year. I am now hesitant to write the blog of this trip because I almost don’t want to spread the word about where I have been and what I have seen. But, I decided that the beauty and rewards of where we are traveling are too good to keep secret. We are in the 4th day of a two-week vacation and delayed honeymoon to two of the former republics of Yugoslavia: Croatia and Slovenia. For many Americans, even in 2010, this is an off-putting region that conjures up dangerous images of the 1990s’ war in the Balkans. To be sure, the scars of that complicated, multi-ethnic, multi-religious war exist. Those travelers who do get up caught up on their current events and shake off some instinctual hesitation will discover that this corner of Europe is a fascinating travel destination of spectacular scenery, centuries of history, wonderful hospitality, and terrific food and wine, all the while offering the chance to acquire a different perspective about the effects of war.

It’s hard to summarize the recent history of either Croatia or Slovenia in a sentence or two, but the very short version is that both declared their independence from Yugoslavia on the same day in 1991. Slovenia’s break was virtually without battle, save a few days, while Croatia endured a longer period of bloodshed. There are many sides to the conflict in this part of the world. Yet, within a few years of independence, both countries began their ever-forward march toward full integration into the European Union. Slovenia today is a full EU member and Croatia is moving quickly towards that status.

DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST: Our trip began last Saturday in the middle of current events, as we waited for our delayed flight to Paris, thanks to that unpronounceable volcano in Iceland. We did take off finally, but the circuitous route from Washington Dulles to Charles De Gaulle that was required to avoid the cloud of volcanic ash stretched the flight time from 6 to 9 hours. This, in turn, resulted in a mad dash through Charles De Gaulle, a crowded and chaotic terminal in the best of times, as we hustled to make our connecting flight on Croatia Airlines to Dubrovnik. We did make the flight and things improved immediately upon take-off with a free (you read that correctly, customers of American carriers) Croatian snack that even included complimentary (not a second typo) Croatian wine. We landed at the diminutive airport south of Dubrovnik, but the construction activity around the terminal confirmed that travelers are discovering the “Pearl of the Adriatic” in ever-increasing numbers.

Dubrovnik was founded in the 7th century as a maritime trading republic that came to rival Venice in both power and wealth. It remained independent for centuries, but has been part of Croatia for hundreds of years. Today, Dubrovnik is the crown jewel of Croatia’s tourism industry, a perfectly preserved yet living ancient city with marble streets, medieval walls, baroque churches and beaches that front the incredibly clear and aquamarine waters of the Adriatic Sea. Dubrovnik also has the curb appeal of the Italian or French Riviera, complete with more than a few jaw-dropping seaside villas, but it is much more. It is no surprise, then, that Dubrovnik has become a hot stop on Med cruises and that’s both good news and bad news. It’s good news for the tourism-based economy of this city of about 50,000. It also means hordes of day-trippers in port for the day during the busy summer cruise season, crowding the narrow streets and even narrower city walls as they follow around tour guides holding paddles or umbrellas. For travelers like my spouse and me, it makes for fun people watching, but it also makes us cringe and swear that, if we do take a cruise, we will be the kinds of passengers that bust free from the crowds when we’re in port and make our own tour route.

As a frustrated travel agent (but only for non-high maintenance clients), I planned most of the travel and lodging details of our trip. In Dubrovnik, I discovered that one has two lodging options. If you want to stay within the confines of the old walled city, the only real option is a rented apartment or room. Your second option includes the large, resort hotels and smaller pensions of the nearby beach areas of Lapad and Ploce. I decided on the former option early on and one of my travel discoveries was a rental agency in Dubrovnik, through which we seamlessly arranged the transfer from the airport, our apartment in the city and a driver to take us to Split, out next destination. The Rose of Dubrovnik, run by a friendly and responsive woman named Meliha, was waiting outside the baggage claim area to whisk us into town on the spectacular coastal road that offers run-out-of-superlative views of the sea and islands. Meliha delivered us to the Budva gate entrance to the old walled city and we picked up the keys to a beautifully furnished studio apartment that offered great location and comfort in the middle of everything for just over 100 Euros a night.

Cleaned up from the long flight from the United States, we headed out to explore and discovered the first surprise (for us) of Dubrovnik. The cross streets of the old walled city that connect with the center of everything, the Stradun, are amazingly and athletically steep. Each time we ascended the 10 flights of stairs to our apartment, I re-committed myself to that step class at the gym back home. But, it’s worth it to heave a little because everywhere you turn in the historic center is a beautiful sight of ancient structures and, at the right elevation, a church tower or the sea beyond. Another signature feature of Dubrovnik is the fact that the streets of the old town are paved in smooth white, centuries-old marble that gleam beautifully day and night, in any season and no matter the weather. Of course, you are in a coastal town, so one of the great pleasures of residents and visitors alike is strolling the waterfront at dusk as the last of the fishing and tourist boats return to the harbor for the evening. Although Dubrovnik has a reputation for over-priced food and poor service in its restaurants, owing to the masses of tourism, we enjoyed several fine meals along the waterfront. Our most memorable meal was at Gil’s, a restaurant and self-described “pop lounge” that serves fusion cuisine with a W Hotel lounge décor on a terrace that is essentially part of the old city wall. The food and service and setting were spectacular on all counts.

There are no must-see museums in Dubrovnik, in part, because the whole place is a living museum. Still, a few stops are worth mention and exploration. During its maritime republic days, Dubrovnik was ruled by rectors (akin to the doges of Venice) and the Rector’s Palace is a good starting location to get your sense of the city and its history. The museum has several rooms of period furnishings and some other ancient artifacts. There are several important churches within the old quarter, as well, including the Dubrovnik Cathedral, the Serbian Orthodox Church, the Jesuit church at St. Ignatius of Loyola, and the church of the Franciscan monastery. We also visited the Dubrovnik Synagogue, which is the oldest Sefardic synagogue in the world still in use, and the second oldest synagogue in Europe. Just outside the city walls is another worthwhile museum break. As you make your way past the closest beach to the old city and toward the newly renovated Hotel Excelsior with its cliff hanging lounge, take time to visit Dubrovnik’s small but well-done Modern Art Gallery. Set in a former villa perched high above the sea, the gallery has a nice collection of Croatian art of high quality, few pieces of which likely have been seen by anyone outside Croatia.

The one thing you HAVE to do in Dubrovnik, however, is get up early before the heat and the crowds to climb the 2.1 kilometer city wall. You have to be reasonably fit to complete this walk but the reward is so worth it. As you make your way around the circumference of the old city, the views over the old town or, alternatively, the sea and islands just offshore, are - well - breathtaking. You will be snapping pictures like mad. Take time to pause at a turret or cannon point. This is an experience that cannot be repeated just anywhere and it really makes the trip worthwhile in and of itself.

On our last day in town, we decided to get on the water. There are several options to spend the day or an overnight on one of the islands off the coast of Dubrovnik. We chose the closest option. Lokrum sits about a mile offshore and less than 15 minutes from the old town via a water taxi. The island has an interesting and strange history. It was inhabited initially by Benedictine monks who planted the island’s orange trees. Legend has it that Richard the Lionhearted was shipwrecked on Lokrum as he returned from the Crusades and, to give thanks for surviving, he offered to build a church on the island. He was persuaded by the city fathers, it is said, to build the church on the mainland instead. The legend continues with the belief among some that this change in plans cursed the island. Later, the French built a fort on the island that subsequently was abandoned. The island’s most recent and tragic notable was Prince Maximillian, a member of the Hapsburg dynasty. He built a villa on the island and planted a botanical garden, raised peacocks and generally loved living there with his wife, Charlotte. His luck turned bad when he became Emperor of Mexico and later was executed by a firing squad in Mexico City. For visitors, however, the setting is idyllic. There are nature trails, lots of descendents of those peacocks running around, a restaurant and beaches, including a nude beach, though the jagged rocks from which one dives into the blue Adriatic struck me as supporting more, not less, clothing. Less than 20 minutes after completing an afternoon exploring this island with no permanent or overnight population, you are back at a harborside table enjoying a glass of Croatian wine.

One or two days in Dubrovnik is enough to get a good sense of the place and check off some of the “must dos” but a week or more could easily and happily be filled with beaches, history and exploration. In addition to the islands, a popular excursion from Dubrovnik is a day trip to the newest European nation, Montenegro, and its spectacular, fjord-like Bay of Kotor. For us, we had to leave as we made our way north and then inland.

NEXT UP: A Roman emperor and his hometown of Split.

TWO DAYS IN DENVER

A MILE HIGH: As everyone knows, Denver is called the "mile high city" because, well, it is. If you stand on the 13th step of the stairs of the state capitol building, you are standing exactly 5,280 feet above sea level. I returned to Denver last month for the first time in many years, and there's a lot more going on in Colorado's capital city than altitude, the Broncos and the Rockies.

In the intervening years since I last visited, Denver has grown from a pretty and outdoorsy town at the base of the Rocky Mountains, which it still is, into a diverse, cosmopolitan city of 2.5 million. At the conclusion of a recent conference, my family joined me for a weekend and we found a friendly city with beautiful neighborhoods and parks, a sophisticated dining scene, great shopping and lots of things for kids and adults to enjoy together, all set against the always inspirational and jaw-dropping view of the mountains (at least when it's not raining and gray, which it was for most of my visit).

THE CENTER OF IT ALL: If you are going to visit Denver and are not flying in to just head west to the mountains for skiing or warm-weather fun, staying downtown will put you at the center of everything with plenty to do and see within walking distance of your hotel. For a western city, Denver's downtown is surprisingly (to me) dense with attractions and even residents. The city also has a transit system of light rail and buses, though you will need a car if you want to explore some of the neighborhoods or go further afield. We stayed at the Sheraton Denver Downtown Hotel. It has all the bells and whistles of a big city chain property, but also is perfectly located near the state capitol and on the pedestrian-friendly 16th Street Mall. With no vehicular traffic, save a free downtown shuttle, 16th Street Mall allows you to walk its length, stopping along the way to shop and dine. I headed out the door one morning for a run down to the other end of mall. This leads to the the cable-stayed Millennium Bridge, a pedestrian suspension span that carries you over a rail yard and connects downtown with the Central Platte Valley and Union Station area. Here, you also can connect to Confluence Park and some really nice running trails along the - you guessed it - confluence of Cherry Creek and the South Platte River. I was able to admire the view back towards the Denver skyline and the cool condo properties nearby, in part, because I had to keep stopping on my run to adjust to the altitude, which definitely can be felt when exercising outside.

FROM MINING TOWN TO BIG LEAGUE: Denver was founded in 1858 during the gold rush of Pikes Peak in what was then the Kansas Territory, and named after the territorial governor. It grew quickly and, when Colorado was admitted to the union in 1876, Denver became its capital. Denver has seen its booms and busts over the years but seems to have survived the Great Recession relatively intact. Denver reminds me of other regional centers like Atlanta and Minneapolis, drawing the young, ambitious and outcast hoping for better luck in the big city, but not yet ready for New York or Los Angeles.

Today, of course, Denver has big city essentials like professional men's sports teams in baseball, basketball, football and hockey. It also has big city shopping like Cherry Creek Mall, which tenants include Burberry, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, but Denver also has interesting local stores, including - of course - great places to buy boots and other western wear. I love the big chain bookstores for browsing but, as an avid reader, I feel a duty to give props to any local bookselling institution that survives and thrives, and Denver has its own in the Tattered Cover where you can drop a few hours browsing. The downtown location is on 16th Street, and there are two other locations, one on East Colfax Avenue in the city and one in Highlands Ranch, a suburb.

EATING AND EXPLORING: On the night of my family's arrival from the East Coast, I met some conference colleagues for dinner beforehand at Panzano, an Italian bistro located in the Hotel Monaco, a Kimpton Hotels property downtown. The food and service were excellent (it was prom night in Denver but our party of 8 was well served and attended) and my skirt steak with Parmesan risotto rocked. I also enjoyed a delicious conference function meal at Kevin Taylor's at the Opera House, which has beautiful space in the performing arts complex; it's a great choice for pre-performance or any other reason meals.

The sun finally shone on Saturday morning and, after rousing our sleepy 9-year-old, we headed to Denver's really excellent zoo, set in City Park, a lovely greensward just east of downtown that offers spectacular views of the city skyline and Rockies. The zoo was a little messy with ongoing construction for a new Asian venue exhibit, but our son loved the highlights that included a week-old giraffe, grizzly bears, komodo dragons and one California sea lion with serious attitude. That evening, we met our niece who teaches school in Denver Public Schools for dinner in the great, close-in neighborhood of Washington Park or, as locals call it, "Wash Park." As its name suggests, the neighborhood centers around the park itself, which is another great urban green space full of runners, walkers and pooches on their daily stroll. Wash Park is full of beautiful Craftsman and similarly-styled houses. There are a couple of cool dining and shopping strips in Wash Park. We stuffed ourselves on sushi, sashimi and Kobe beef at Izakaya Den, an excellent and packed restaurant on South Pearl Street. Another good stretch is South Gaylord Street.

After a late Sunday morning and before heading home, we made our way a few blocks away to two of Denver's cultural and architectural stars. The Denver Art Museum houses an impressive collection of Native American art among its other offerings. Its mojo was kicked up several notches with the 2006 opening of an addition that is a stainless steel, architectural nod to the nearby Rockies designed by famed architect Daniel Libeskind. We were there on a "dia del nino" with activities for kids that made the visit for parents and child alike enjoyable. The museum is adjacent to the new home of the Denver Public Library, which was designed by another big design name, Michael Graves. In addition to its regular collection, the library houses separate collections focused on Western history and African Americans in Colorado and the West.

MY RULES: Denver International Airport is a sprawling terminal located well east of the city that is one of the country's busiest. Southwest is a recent and expanding entrant so my first travel rule of well-priced, direct flights from home base in Baltimore is met. As to my second travel rule, I found Denver to be a friendly, relaxed place. I caught a few same-sex couples strolling hand-in-hand without any notice or protest. The city's CVB website has a GLBT section, which notes that, while "Brokeback Mountain" was filmed up the road in Wyoming, Denver has had a thriving GLBT community for some time. Whatever your team, I can say that all of that sunshine, thin air and frequent outdoor activity seems to have produced in Denver a populous that is particularly fit and attractive, and which makes for good people-watching for everyone.