CROATIA & SLOVENIA: PART 1

NOTE: I am writing not from the comfort of home, but from on the road (or, this case, a train), so I will forego my normal OCD routine of spell-checking obsessively and searching hyperlinks in order to put words to paper.

YOU ARE GOING WHERE? Several people asked us that question as we began planning this trip last year. I am now hesitant to write the blog of this trip because I almost don’t want to spread the word about where I have been and what I have seen. But, I decided that the beauty and rewards of where we are traveling are too good to keep secret. We are in the 4th day of a two-week vacation and delayed honeymoon to two of the former republics of Yugoslavia: Croatia and Slovenia. For many Americans, even in 2010, this is an off-putting region that conjures up dangerous images of the 1990s’ war in the Balkans. To be sure, the scars of that complicated, multi-ethnic, multi-religious war exist. Those travelers who do get up caught up on their current events and shake off some instinctual hesitation will discover that this corner of Europe is a fascinating travel destination of spectacular scenery, centuries of history, wonderful hospitality, and terrific food and wine, all the while offering the chance to acquire a different perspective about the effects of war.

It’s hard to summarize the recent history of either Croatia or Slovenia in a sentence or two, but the very short version is that both declared their independence from Yugoslavia on the same day in 1991. Slovenia’s break was virtually without battle, save a few days, while Croatia endured a longer period of bloodshed. There are many sides to the conflict in this part of the world. Yet, within a few years of independence, both countries began their ever-forward march toward full integration into the European Union. Slovenia today is a full EU member and Croatia is moving quickly towards that status.

DUBROVNIK & THE DALMATIAN COAST: Our trip began last Saturday in the middle of current events, as we waited for our delayed flight to Paris, thanks to that unpronounceable volcano in Iceland. We did take off finally, but the circuitous route from Washington Dulles to Charles De Gaulle that was required to avoid the cloud of volcanic ash stretched the flight time from 6 to 9 hours. This, in turn, resulted in a mad dash through Charles De Gaulle, a crowded and chaotic terminal in the best of times, as we hustled to make our connecting flight on Croatia Airlines to Dubrovnik. We did make the flight and things improved immediately upon take-off with a free (you read that correctly, customers of American carriers) Croatian snack that even included complimentary (not a second typo) Croatian wine. We landed at the diminutive airport south of Dubrovnik, but the construction activity around the terminal confirmed that travelers are discovering the “Pearl of the Adriatic” in ever-increasing numbers.

Dubrovnik was founded in the 7th century as a maritime trading republic that came to rival Venice in both power and wealth. It remained independent for centuries, but has been part of Croatia for hundreds of years. Today, Dubrovnik is the crown jewel of Croatia’s tourism industry, a perfectly preserved yet living ancient city with marble streets, medieval walls, baroque churches and beaches that front the incredibly clear and aquamarine waters of the Adriatic Sea. Dubrovnik also has the curb appeal of the Italian or French Riviera, complete with more than a few jaw-dropping seaside villas, but it is much more. It is no surprise, then, that Dubrovnik has become a hot stop on Med cruises and that’s both good news and bad news. It’s good news for the tourism-based economy of this city of about 50,000. It also means hordes of day-trippers in port for the day during the busy summer cruise season, crowding the narrow streets and even narrower city walls as they follow around tour guides holding paddles or umbrellas. For travelers like my spouse and me, it makes for fun people watching, but it also makes us cringe and swear that, if we do take a cruise, we will be the kinds of passengers that bust free from the crowds when we’re in port and make our own tour route.

As a frustrated travel agent (but only for non-high maintenance clients), I planned most of the travel and lodging details of our trip. In Dubrovnik, I discovered that one has two lodging options. If you want to stay within the confines of the old walled city, the only real option is a rented apartment or room. Your second option includes the large, resort hotels and smaller pensions of the nearby beach areas of Lapad and Ploce. I decided on the former option early on and one of my travel discoveries was a rental agency in Dubrovnik, through which we seamlessly arranged the transfer from the airport, our apartment in the city and a driver to take us to Split, out next destination. The Rose of Dubrovnik, run by a friendly and responsive woman named Meliha, was waiting outside the baggage claim area to whisk us into town on the spectacular coastal road that offers run-out-of-superlative views of the sea and islands. Meliha delivered us to the Budva gate entrance to the old walled city and we picked up the keys to a beautifully furnished studio apartment that offered great location and comfort in the middle of everything for just over 100 Euros a night.

Cleaned up from the long flight from the United States, we headed out to explore and discovered the first surprise (for us) of Dubrovnik. The cross streets of the old walled city that connect with the center of everything, the Stradun, are amazingly and athletically steep. Each time we ascended the 10 flights of stairs to our apartment, I re-committed myself to that step class at the gym back home. But, it’s worth it to heave a little because everywhere you turn in the historic center is a beautiful sight of ancient structures and, at the right elevation, a church tower or the sea beyond. Another signature feature of Dubrovnik is the fact that the streets of the old town are paved in smooth white, centuries-old marble that gleam beautifully day and night, in any season and no matter the weather. Of course, you are in a coastal town, so one of the great pleasures of residents and visitors alike is strolling the waterfront at dusk as the last of the fishing and tourist boats return to the harbor for the evening. Although Dubrovnik has a reputation for over-priced food and poor service in its restaurants, owing to the masses of tourism, we enjoyed several fine meals along the waterfront. Our most memorable meal was at Gil’s, a restaurant and self-described “pop lounge” that serves fusion cuisine with a W Hotel lounge décor on a terrace that is essentially part of the old city wall. The food and service and setting were spectacular on all counts.

There are no must-see museums in Dubrovnik, in part, because the whole place is a living museum. Still, a few stops are worth mention and exploration. During its maritime republic days, Dubrovnik was ruled by rectors (akin to the doges of Venice) and the Rector’s Palace is a good starting location to get your sense of the city and its history. The museum has several rooms of period furnishings and some other ancient artifacts. There are several important churches within the old quarter, as well, including the Dubrovnik Cathedral, the Serbian Orthodox Church, the Jesuit church at St. Ignatius of Loyola, and the church of the Franciscan monastery. We also visited the Dubrovnik Synagogue, which is the oldest Sefardic synagogue in the world still in use, and the second oldest synagogue in Europe. Just outside the city walls is another worthwhile museum break. As you make your way past the closest beach to the old city and toward the newly renovated Hotel Excelsior with its cliff hanging lounge, take time to visit Dubrovnik’s small but well-done Modern Art Gallery. Set in a former villa perched high above the sea, the gallery has a nice collection of Croatian art of high quality, few pieces of which likely have been seen by anyone outside Croatia.

The one thing you HAVE to do in Dubrovnik, however, is get up early before the heat and the crowds to climb the 2.1 kilometer city wall. You have to be reasonably fit to complete this walk but the reward is so worth it. As you make your way around the circumference of the old city, the views over the old town or, alternatively, the sea and islands just offshore, are - well - breathtaking. You will be snapping pictures like mad. Take time to pause at a turret or cannon point. This is an experience that cannot be repeated just anywhere and it really makes the trip worthwhile in and of itself.

On our last day in town, we decided to get on the water. There are several options to spend the day or an overnight on one of the islands off the coast of Dubrovnik. We chose the closest option. Lokrum sits about a mile offshore and less than 15 minutes from the old town via a water taxi. The island has an interesting and strange history. It was inhabited initially by Benedictine monks who planted the island’s orange trees. Legend has it that Richard the Lionhearted was shipwrecked on Lokrum as he returned from the Crusades and, to give thanks for surviving, he offered to build a church on the island. He was persuaded by the city fathers, it is said, to build the church on the mainland instead. The legend continues with the belief among some that this change in plans cursed the island. Later, the French built a fort on the island that subsequently was abandoned. The island’s most recent and tragic notable was Prince Maximillian, a member of the Hapsburg dynasty. He built a villa on the island and planted a botanical garden, raised peacocks and generally loved living there with his wife, Charlotte. His luck turned bad when he became Emperor of Mexico and later was executed by a firing squad in Mexico City. For visitors, however, the setting is idyllic. There are nature trails, lots of descendents of those peacocks running around, a restaurant and beaches, including a nude beach, though the jagged rocks from which one dives into the blue Adriatic struck me as supporting more, not less, clothing. Less than 20 minutes after completing an afternoon exploring this island with no permanent or overnight population, you are back at a harborside table enjoying a glass of Croatian wine.

One or two days in Dubrovnik is enough to get a good sense of the place and check off some of the “must dos” but a week or more could easily and happily be filled with beaches, history and exploration. In addition to the islands, a popular excursion from Dubrovnik is a day trip to the newest European nation, Montenegro, and its spectacular, fjord-like Bay of Kotor. For us, we had to leave as we made our way north and then inland.

NEXT UP: A Roman emperor and his hometown of Split.