
DIFFERING IMAGES: My image of Munich evolved constantly during a brief visit earlier this year. The Bavarian capital both confirmed and contradicted preconceptions, which makes it a great destination. Reading descriptions in travel books, Munich is generally described as beautiful and prosperous and much more conservative when compared to Berlin and Hamburg, Germany’s two other big cities. Beautiful and prosperous are immediately apparent upon arrival. This city of about 1.5 million is spectacularly situated in southern Germany near the Alps and is a center of publishing and finance, as well as the headquarters of such famous brands as BMW and Allianz. Because Munich was once the seat of government for the independent Republic of Bavaria, it has palaces and museums on par with any other European capital. Arriving after a 5-hour drive from the rollicking, anything goes capital – that would be Berlin – I was prepared for Munich to be more buttoned down. And, in certain ways, it was. Our hotel, the K & K Hotel am Harras, was located in a quiet neighborhood where most shops had closed by 7:00 p.m. on the day we arrived. Finding dinner that first night required a subway trip into the center of the city. The good news is that Munich has an extensive and safe metro system (U-bahn) and, within minutes, we were dining in a pub on a traditional Bavarian meal of pork and potato dumplings. Oh, yes, and beer; although we sampled a great variety of very drinkable German wines during our stay, so non-beer drinkers needn’t worry.
My first image of Munich changed two days later on a hot July morning as my spouse and our son and I were walking towards the Marienplatz and the Neues Rathaus (City Hall), a beautiful, imposing example of Gothic revival architecture. As we got nearer, the music got louder. We rounded a corner into the city’s main square to face a large stage with jumbo speakers blasting out Sister Sledge’s “We are Family.” Before the stage was a large crowd numbering in the thousands that included lots of shirtless men wearing lederhosen, the otherwise very traditional Bavarian men’s garment of leather shorts with suspenders. As it turned out, we had traveled to the city during Christopher Street Day München, the city’s annual gay pride festival. As much fun as the parade looked to be, we adjusted our sightseeing plans to avoid its route in order to see as much as possible during our only full day in the city because Munich is a great walking city and many of its attractions are concentrated in the historic center along the banks of the River Isar.
So, we moved away from the crowds onto the narrow pedestrianized streets radiating off Marienplatz and my impression of Munich changed yet again. I headed to Maximilian Strasse, Munich’s Fifth Avenue. As I walked this posh shopping street, I noted the striking contrast between the “minimally clad” crowd partying a short distance away in Marienplatz and the large groups of women shoppers before me in chadours, hijabs and other articles of Islamic clothing waiting their turn to gain entrance from doormen into the likes of Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Jimmy Choo. Clearly, Munich is both a party destination beyond Oktoberfest and a major retail stop for shoppers from all over.
Munich also is a city in which you could spend a weekend visiting one impressive museum after another. My spouse and our son spent the better part of the day at the famous Deutsches Museum, arguably the world’s largest museum of science and technology. Just beyond the medieval core lies the Museum District, home to the Alte Pinakothek (Old Gallery), the Neue Pinakothek (New Gallery) and the Pinakothek der Moderne (Museum of Modern Art). Together, these galleries showcase centuries of art from Germany and well beyond. The city also has several beautiful parks when you need a break outside. The site of the 1972 Olympics today is a multi-purpose playground for residents and visitors, while the city’s Englischer Garten is one of the largest urban city parks in the world. Closer in and smaller is the lovely Hofgarten, a park in the Italian Renaissance style near the Residenz, the former royal palace of Bavarian monarchy.
OUT AND ABOUT: After making my way across the River Isar to the looming and impressive Bavarian State Parliament, I decided to join in the Pride activities after all. So, I headed to Müllerstrasse, a prime location of gay friendly stores, bars and restaurants. I picked up souvenirs in the form of two new shirts at Seba’s, an of-the-moment men’s store. Down the street, I stopped into a shoe store and left with a new pair of Munich sneakers. I asked about the name and the salesperson told me that the shoes actually are made by a Spanish company that was founded and named after the Munich Olympics.
As a major transportation hub, Munich is a great base for exploring this part of Germany and neighboring Austria. There are lots of options, too, from lakeside resorts to winter sports in the Alps, including Garmisch, situated near the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak. Less than 20 miles outside Munich lies the commuter suburb of Dachau with its scenic, historic core. Of course, Dachau is forever infamous as the site of one of the most notorious Nazi death camps. Traveling with a 10-year-old, we left for another visit to Munich that important but undoubtedly sobering experience.
Instead, for our day out of Munich, we boarded a train for the two-hour trip to visit the fairy tale-inspiring palace of Mad King Ludwig. Having seen the iconic images of Neuschwanstein many times, I still was amazed to be staring up at this enormous castle built on a rock. The visit involves a very strenuous and uphill hike that takes about 30 minutes. The reward is well worth the effort. In addition to the castle itself with several rooms open to visitors, the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside make for an outstanding mental postcard of Bavaria.
Beautiful, scenic, historic, fun, hip, prosperous, green. Munich is all of these and more. My final impression was of a great, world-class city worthy of more exploration. I will hope to return soon.