THE NATION'S CAPITAL: I work in Washington, D.C., commuting in every day from my home in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. From a glass half full perspective, that means I get the best of two, very different cities. From a glass half empty perspective, that means I spend up to 4 hours each day just getting from place to place. What that also means is that I rarely get to enjoy the nation’s capital outside the office, save an occasional celebratory lunch with colleagues. To remedy this, my spouse and I took the occasion of Valentine’s weekend to spend 24 hours in the city we know so well, but which we rarely get to enjoy. So, we set out for a quick slice of all that makes Washington such a world-class visitor destination. THE DISTRICT: Although I have lived or worked in Washington for more than 10 years, I never fail to appreciate that the District – as locals call it – is a compelling and alluring mix of history, tradition, monuments, power and physical beauty. If you’ve never visited this city, you might miss that fact, given the penchant of many in today’s “media” to shorthand our current, caustic and rollicking political environment under the presumed pejorative of “Washington.” Washington may be the home of some elected official with whom you disagree. But, it’s so much more than a venue for politics. It’s a real, thriving, dynamic and struggling city full of incredibly diverse, talented and (mostly) hard-working citizens.
Though this wasn’t always the case, today it’s also among the world’s most sophisticated capitals. Overall, it’s an uber-educated and international metropolis of more than 5 million, yet it retains much of its formerly predominant Southern look and feel. I challenge any traveler not to be smitten by such an entrée of history and tradition that comes with several appealing sides, including a now-dynamic and diverse dining scene, awesome museums (many of which are free), a stuffed cultural and sports calendar, an expanding menu of cool-to-comfortable-to luxury hotel options, and an easy-to-use (but often overburdened) public transit system, the Metro.
BEYOND THE MONUMENTS AND THE MALL: Our 24 hours in Washington began with check-in at the Madison Hotel, a smart and stylish member of the Loews hotel chain located about 5 blocks from the White House. Other stylish lodging options nearby include the Jefferson and the Hotel Sofitel. Our room was a nice mix of tradition and sleek styling with a street view, although the location would prove less desirable the next morning. For some reason, the restaurant was closed, so we had a drink in the lobby bar. The Hendricks gin martini was fine but $17 seemed a bit steep, even for Washington. The last time I paid nearly 20 bucks for a cocktail, it came with a view from the lobby on the 35th floor of the Mandarin Oriental in New York overlooking Central Park at Columbus Circle. Our view in the bar at the Madison was of Colonial print reproductions on the wall. But, we had dinner plans so it was time to get going.
Dinner was at the recently opened Washington outpost of P.J. Clarke’s, a New York tradition of steaks and seafood. The food and service were great and the setting was a mix of old-school New York and expense account lobbyist. Nearby alternatives include other steak or seafood chains like The Palm or McCormick and Schmicks; local favorites such as Georgia Brown’s with its Low Country comfort food offerings; or the many casual-to-fancy choices of Dupont Circle, Washington’s official gayborhood, just to the north.
We awoke Sunday morning to the sound of organized labor. Turns out, the Madison is the current object of union protests. I was conflicted. On the one hand, I support fighting for your rights. On the other hand, did it have to be under our window as we tried to (a) sleep; and (b) enjoy a quiet, romantic break. After I crossed the picket line, as the protestors chided me, for my morning run through the otherwise quiet streets of the District, we checked out and made our way to brunch.
Brunch was at Taberna del Alabadero, a slice of Madrid at the corner of 18th and I streets. The service is gracious and old world. During our visit, we enjoyed a brunch buffet featuring a menu from La Rioja region of España. The paella with lamb was a delicious alternative to the more traditional seafood-focused version that originates on the coast at Valencia. The crisp, white Spanish wine was a good call by our waiter, as were the empanadas filled with Almond crème.
After brunch, we considered a visit to either Hillwood, the museum-estate and former home of Marjorie Meriwether Post, or the Phillips Collection, a wonderful and manageable modern art museum just off Dupont Circle. Duty called back home, so we made our way out of Washington. One of my favorite ways to leave the city is to head out Embassy Row on Massachusetts Avenue, past the Vice President’s Mansion at the Naval Observatory, before turning onto Wisconsin Avenue at the Washington National Cathedral and continuing out to the Capital Beltway and home.
Sure, Washington can be a frustrating, expensive and sometimes disappointing city. But, it’s like no place else and it does belong to every American. The good news is that you will have to work hard at not having a good time when you visit your nation’s capital.
MY RULES: Washington is well-served by three airports, the incredibly convenient Reagan National Airport, just across the Potomac in Virginia and accessible via Metro; Dulles Airport, where most international flights land; and the BWI Thurgood Marshall Airport, which serves both Baltimore and Washington and also is a Southwest Airlines hub.
As to my second rule, diversity and openness are almost something residents of Washington take for granted. There are pockets and problems, but I could get married (again) in the District if I wanted to, and people of every race, religion, orientation and - yes - political persuasion keep busy every day making this a fascinating place in which to live or work or visit.
